Sharp LC C4067UN AQUOS 1920 x 1080 Full HD 1080p LCD HDTV

Hi,

This TV since simple as no means perfect, but I’m sure it’s good value for 1080p. I got fairly paranoid on the TV being 60Hz vs 120Hz, but have realized no major issues. Could very well the tv screen about A month and possess watched football, ice hockey, track and field and a few blue ray dvd player movies about the PS3 and saw no major problems. The film mode inside advanced menu also seems to manage a few of the:2 pull down of cable 1080i HD movies really well, and this option is generally switched on (see below). 480i also looks really cool after calibration.

On to calibration.

Out of your box, the settings aren’t optimal (are they ever). For calibration, I followed basic steps from CurtPalme, henceforth often known as “Kal’s Guide”.

This guide helps you adjust grayscale and color to get a professional grade calibration. To utilise Kal’s Guide, you must have:

1. The ColorHCFR software (free download).
2. A color meter.I made use of Eye-One Display 2 (I am a serious
amateur photographer and already owned it for computer
monitor calibration).
3. A calibration DVD; Digital Video Essentials-HD Basics,
(I often tried nowhere Ray version), OR, AVS HD 709 calibration disk (download free).

The AVS HD 709 software programs are burned at a regular DVD it requires need Blue Ray player to spend time it. Note, usually when you use this, it’s good to identify the needed greyscale patterns yourself.

This TV lacks the RGB adjustments for brightness or contrast (called RGBLowEnd and RGBHighEnd in Kal’s Guide, sometimes known as RGB bias and RGB gain), so this part of the grayscale calibration would have to be skipped. However, the CMS system allows individual adjustment of RGB for value (brightness), hue and saturation, that is definitely greater than a quick color and hue adjustment.

First off, I ran through both grayscale and primary/secondary color calibrations considering the factory settings to look at where We were at. We used the default “User” picture settings as the place. Should you be not looking into the technical details, skip this section and scroll as small as the section RECOMMENDED CALIBRATION SETTINGS FOR LC-C4067UN. Information summary within the results together with the out-of your box “User” settings.

The deltaE (% error from D65) values for 0 IRE to 100 IRE were the following:
0 IRE: 123.8%, 10 IRE: 27.4%, 20 IRE: 28.4%, 30 IRE: 28.6%, 40 IRE: 30.6%, 50 IRE: 30.1%, 60 IRE: 29.8%, 70 IRE: 30.2%, 80 IRE: 29.7%, 90 IRE: 26.9%, 100 IRE: 22.7%.

According to Kal’s Guide, something of <10% is recommended over the entire greyscale range along with a valuation on 3% regarded as good simply because it gets. At around 30% on the board, our company is quite a distance off.

Luminance:
The average luminance curve looks OK, but individual colors are off (blue too much, red too low).

Gamma:
Average is 2.25 (target is 2.2). Numerous analysts . average are priced between 0 IRE to 100 IRE is 2.One or two.39. Red is way off with varieties of 2.12 to two.84.

RGB Levels:
Green is alright, but blue is 30% exorbitant and red is 20% too low over the entire grayscale range. Nice thing about it is all curves are relatively flat, except inside the 0 IRE – 10 IRE range. This really almost black, in order that you won’t notice any variations here.

Color Temperature: Kal’s Guide recommends by way of the pay a large amount of focus on this, but for the record, it stays pretty flat along the range 0 IRE (black) to 100 IRE (white) at around 9000K (well above the 6500K target).

I didn’t record the consumer deltaE values for the primary and secondary colors, but as indicated by Kal’s Guide, a value of <10% is recommended throughout the board which includes a price of 3% believed to be good because it gets. All values were within your high teens and 20s.


ADJUSTMENTS.

The white level was adjusted using contrast from the picture menu. This sets the peak luminance. All around screen brightness and all of color adjustments are made from this value, so it’s vital to set this to one’s specific viewing conditions. Kal’s Guide recommends a target luminance of 30-40 ftL, that is centered on viewing with a color-controlled environment i.e. a darkened room. I started here (at 35ftL) and found this setting worked precisely as it should to acquire a dark room overnight, but was way too low for daylight viewing (no shadow detail). Take a look at begin using these settings, they are just plain in parenthesis below.

I thought he would recalibrate and used something close to 54ftL instead. I found this helps with daylight viewing and am also happy with it for nighttime viewing in dim light. Note: Backlight was toned down to -6 before contrast adjustment. (For you to be even as compared to 54ftL any time you watch inside a really bright room or approximately a window through the day)

The black level was set in keeping with Kal’s Guide and was adjusted using brightness. Before above, this TV won’t have RGB grayscale adjustment at the user menu, so that’s the plan for grayscale adjustment (should you don’t work out how to further adjust in your service menus – I didn’t go there). As soon as the above adjustments, the accompanying effects were achieved.

The deltaE values for 0 IRE to 100 IRE grayscale were the following:
0 IRE: 150%, 10 IRE: 7.9%, 20 IRE: 5.7%, 30 IRE: 9.4%, 40 IRE: 9.8%, 50 IRE: 9.5%, 60 IRE: 9.8%, 70 IRE: 10.7%, 80 IRE: 10.5%, 90 IRE: 10.2%, 100 IRE: 9.9%. Apart from pure black, this can be approaching being < 10% over the range. I wasn’t capable of getting it any better than this.

Luminance:
Now blue and green are close to target but red showed only a slight improvement from before (too low).

Gamma: Average is higher at around 2.27. A typical cover anything from 0 IRE to 100 IRE was tightened. Red is improved whilst still being shows essentially the most variation.

RGB Levels: Red and blue can be around 5-10% below target through the range and green is appropriate on as before. Again all curves are relatively flat, except while in the 0 IRE – 10 IRE range. That’s almost black, therefore you won’t notice any variations here.


Color Temperature: Sits on 6500K line but tails off just a little to 6200K at 100 IRE.
This is known as a vast improvement over the default.

Primary and secondary colors were adjusted making use of the CMS Hue, Saturation and Value settings on the advanced menu to generate values as near as feasible towards recommended settings in Kal’s Guide to make the HDTV REC 709 standard. Using the tweaks, the deltaE values of the primary and secondary colors were as follows; R: 14.8%, G: 8.8%, B: 5.3%, Y: 4.4%, C: 9.7%, M: 7.3%. Transpire ended up get everything cheaper than 10% per Kal’s Guide. Cleaning it once a numerous iterations and wasn’t capable of getting red superior to around 14%.


RECOMMENDED CALIBTATION SETTINGS FOR LC-C4067UN
(Dark room viewing settings shown in parenthesis). Start using thise on condition that you always view tv at midnight.

Picture menu.
OPC: OFF
Backlight: -6 (-11)
Contrast: 32 (18)
Brightness: -5 (-5)
Color: 0 (0)
Tint: 0 (0)
Sharpness: 0 (0)

Advanced Menu:
CMS Hue.
R: +4 (+4)
Y: +1 (+2)
G: 0 (0)
C: +10 (+7)
B: 0 (0)
M: 0 (+2)

CMS Saturation.
R: +5 (+4)
Y: +1 (+1)
G: 0 (0)
C: -30 (+12)
B: 0 (0)
M: 0 (-2)

CMS Value.
R: -6 (-9)
Y: 0 (0)
G: -10 (-10)
C: +10 (+5)
B: +10 (+5)
M: 0 (0)

Color Temperature: LOW
Active Contrast: OFF
Film Mode: ON
Digital Noise Reduction: OFF
Monochrome: OFF
OPC Range: N/A

If any pros in existence have any suggestions teaching how to increase the “red” setting and keep good values for anything else, please make me aware.
Skin tones are not affected, but also from a “red-looking scene”, e.g. low color temperature setting in particular low tungsten light or sunsets, the “red” effect looks an impression saturated for my taste.

Regards.